ilmuku

Down the Garden Lane

Printable pages of this project
Chart Down the Garden Lane
Monogram Initials
My Designs
.pdf formats are below
page 1 the wavy liner
page 2 the conclusion of the wavy liner. Please correlate that supply list with this supply list if you need a printed copy to buy supplies.

This lesson is about how to use Hardanger for finishing a project, and how I used thread blends with DMC to achieve shading in the motifs.
Let me indulge in a little digression, I drive my ambitions on reasoned conjecture. One of these hunches was that you would like to have a project with depth, one that had been tested and carefully prepared, so that you could get through the instructions with some effort and expect it to be what it claimed. Take the purse I made from Down the Garden Lane.

It had always been intended to be a purse, but the original concept pulled apart. It was a project that I had promised to a local needlework shop and could not deliver. I followed the 'typical' Hardanger 'rules' and it fell apart! I couldn't deliver this to a shopowner! It had to be fixed first.

So after it fell apart I redid it and made it into a bell pull, ureka! Bell pull or not it was what I wanted for the purse. I wanted to deliver to you a project that you could use, one that would hold up over time, one that you could wash and enjoy using without fear of ruining it, one that didn't fall apart because it was not stitched by the designer who knew what was intended for the project. Never mind that this little adventure took about six years to accomplish and a box full of failed experiments.

Then I had to add the DMC instructions to replace the beautiful silk threads I had originally used in the design.

Another one of my reasoned guesses was that you would really like to have a way to finish a project without having to frame it, hence the 'wavy' liner.

Lastly, I want to give you something a little extra in my designs, something you don't see everyday. So I study, I research, believe me it has all been done before, we just forget a lot of it. What I found was another way to do Satin stitches so that you don't have to use a laying tool. You can find it in the Wildflowers chart or Mysterious and Spooky

Sorry about not giving them here, but I have to pay for all this and it would be so helpful if you bought these charts from all the wonderful shops that support me. Believe me, nothing is free in this life, I have to pay to put these 'free' instructions on the internet. So buy my charts ! They are very reasonable in price, never mind how much information so many of them contain.

Down the Garden Lane, the project

It can be a bell pull and further down the page I used the same design for the needle case that the little bear is holding. Isn't he a sweetie?
The chart is available through a link under the photo of the project. The .pdf documents show the wavy edge liner for the project and a supply list that you will need to correlate with this project.
The DMC Method
To begin, I want to show you how I blended the colors for this project. On the margin of the fabric I used for the embroidery I stitched blocks like this to see what colors I wanted to use.

These are DMC floss colors used in the chart and stitched with two strands over two fabric threads.

I thought all these colors except the yellow green and the darker purple worked well for the design and used them in the embroidery by changing the combinations of threads each time I needed to rethread the needle. Please try this exercise with some of your favorite colors and use them instead.

For the pink the chart calls for 225. At the top of the picture with the color blocks I stitched two strands of 225, for the middle I stitched one strand 225 with one strand 224 and the bottom I stitched two strands of 224.

For the blue the chart calls for 3752. At the top of the picture I stitched two strands of 3752, the middle one strand of 3752 with one strand 3747, and the bottom one strand of 3752 with one strand 3755.

For the green the chart calls for 368. At the top of the picture I stitched two strands of 368, the middle one strand of 368 with one strand 369 and the bottom one strand of 368 with one strand 367.

For a different green I tried 471 with two strands, the middle was stitched with one strand of 471 and one strand of 472, and the bottom was stitched with one strand of 471 and one strand of 469. I thought this one was too yellow and did not use it.

For the purple the chart calls for 3042, I stitched two strands of 3042 at the top, in the middle I stitched one strand of 3042 and one strand of 3041 and the bottom is two strands of 3041. The middle one got too tweedy, the bottom one was too dark so I decided 3042 would work well.

The supply list is down the page between the end of this part of the instructions and the purse.

Butterflies

Each grid represents two fabric threads.

For the two top butterflies I used

D one strand of 3752 and one strand of 3755

M two strands of 3752,

L a strand of 3747 with a strand of 3752.

+ two strands of 369

= pearl beads

. two strands of 225.

Don't be alarmed about these blues not matching the photos, because of the lighting I used to photograph these blues they are brighter and more intense than they are in reality.

For the little Mayflies above the tulips I did one dark, one light and one medium each using the same colors as above.

Tulips

Each grid represents two fabric threads.

For the tulips I used two strands of 309 (dark) and one strand of 224 with one strand of 225 (light) and added a new color 3833 (medium). The example above is how I stitched the tulips. For the leaves I used the greens and varied the strands whenever I added new threads. You might try making all the stems dark so they stand away from the fabric and the leaves.

Lettering

All the lettering and vines use one strand of 319.

Moth

Each grid represents two fabric threads.

The moth uses the blues and in the same variations as the butterflies except that I worked across both wings at the same time to maintain symmetry. That is if I was using two strands of 3752 on one wing and ran out of thread, I would rethread two strands of 3752 and use it on the same line of the design on the other wing.

The body uses two strands of 368 and one strand of 368 with one strand 369. These variations are used on the body and all the way out the antennae.

The pink is used again and the purple 3042 is added to the moth wings.

The vine stems use one strand of 319 and the leaves are varied with one strand of 368 with one strand 369 and one strand of 368 with one strand 367. For the flowers I used either 3042 or 3041, I did not combine these but used two strands of each color.

Hedges

Follow the chart for color placement Use this chart for random blends that you try on your own.

The bottom third of this design has three hedges, the daisy hedge, the flower hedge and the shrub hedge where the ladybug is located. For the daisy hedge stitch the daisy with DMC 368 using one strand. Cross stitch on eight 40123 Petite Mill Hill beads, one in each segment of the daisy using the ecru floss, two strands. By cross stitching these beads on they won't flop around and get loose and dangle.

For the flower hedge follow the chart above. The darkest pink is 3833, and the other pink is a blend of one strand each of 224 and 225. I have shown the light and dark colors for the greens, violet and blues. Place a 40123 bead in the centers of the pink flowers, again using cross stitches.

For the shrub hedge use the greens, two strands of floss by changing the blends whenever you need a new thread or by skipping parts of the motif and filling it in later when you rethread the needle with new colors. The same for the point of the design and the flower hedge. I have included a chart of the flower hedge above for you to try your own variations.

I used a button for the ladybug, but you could stitch them with DMC 309 and 310 as shown on the chart.

Border

For the Four Sided stitches , Satin stitches and the Buttonhole stitches please click on their names. You need to begin stitching the edges so that it isn't all left for the finish. Work a length of thread for each of the four types of stitches then stop for the session.

The eyelet has four arms and each arm is over two fabric threads. I pulled the thread on this stitch whenever I brought the needle up to the top of the fabric. An awl will make the openings in the fabric uniform. These eyelets will be used later with the case to close the pocket edges.

Alternate Edge Finish for Border

If you would prefer a different edge I would suggest that you substitute Four sided Stitches for the Satin stitches, Eyelet Stitches and Buttonhole Stitches that I have charted for the border of this design. Please click on the chart to see the original border.

Then make Cross Stitches over two fabric threads for the Four sided stitches over two fabric threads.

Leave a selvege all around the design that will be turned back, tacked in place with a contrasting thread and then sewn to the back of the embroidery using the Ladder stitch.

This selvedge edge needs to be twelve fabric threads wide and the Four sided stitches needs another four fabric threads. You can remove the fourth fabric thread from the selvedge edge and fold over the remaining three fabric threads, then fold over that fold and sew it next to the cross stitch on the back of the Four Sided stitch. Check before you sew anything to see if you need to pull another fabric thread so that the folds are narrow enough to be sewn to the back side of the the Four Sided stitches. Four sided stitches done the way shown will create Cross stitch on their backs.

Begin the interior Cross Stitches all around the design in the place of the Four sided stitches over two fabric threads shown on the design chart. If you decide to make the Thread Case these Cross stitches will have the front of the liner sewn to the back of them. The interior Four sided stitches that you will be replacing with Cross Stitches were charted over two fabric threads so make the Cross Stitches over two fabric threads.

Remember that the outside edge has Four sided stitches that are over four fabric threads, that is on the edge of the embroidery instead of the edging I have charted on the design chart.

Supply List
What I Used for this project
This design is 90 stitches wide and 267 stitches plus extra inches long to wrap around a hanger rod. Each grid on the main chart represents two fabric threads. I used 32 count Antique Ivory Linen, and the liner is 32 Count, any color will work for the liner. I matched a color on the embroidery that I liked for the blue liner and used matching or complimentary like 932 #8 Perle Cotton for the Buttonhole stitches on it.
Stitch DMC Thread
Pink Block 225 and 224
Medium Pink 3833 also Dark Pink 309
Butterfly/Moth bodies, light green 369
Green Block 368, 367
--------- 319 All the stems and all the letters are Back stitched with 319
Daisy is Back stitched with 368
Blue Block 3752, 3755, 3747
Purple Block 3042, 3041 optional
Four Sided Stitches DMC Ecru Perle 12
Red Block Ladybug Red 309
Black Block Ladybug Black 310
Yellow Block 745
White Block Mill Hill 40123 Ecru or white French Knot
Mill Hill beads that match the liner, use the larger size seed beads because these are sewn through the Eyelets to hold the pocket together.
Buttonhole Edging Ecru Perle Cotton Size 8 for the Buttonhole, Eyelet and Satin Stitches on the embroidery. Any blue even weave fabric will work for the liner and matching Perle Cotton Size 8 and floss. Lady Bugs (2) T 1103, Just Another Button Company, Tiny Cranberry Ladybug.
Thread Case
Liner

Each stitch is over two fabric threads

This is a scan of part of the liner. What I did was make a pattern by Back stitching this cloth with the same number of stitches as the Four Sided stitches I used inside the edging on the original chart. I used Perle Cotton #8 or two strands of floss for these Back stitches .

For the double butterfly segment or top segment of the design I made 76 Back stitches across the top of the liner and 44 Back stitches down both side of the liner.

There are four segments, the point segment is not included in this liner. And you may need a different count because you stitches varied from the pattern. Count to insure accuracy.

Then for the middle segments or the Moth segment and the Tulip segment I made another row of 76 stitches across the fabric and 51 stitches down both sides of the liner for each segment.

Then I did 76 stitches across the liner and 62 stitches down both sides of the liner for the Hedge segment.

In the Hedge segment where there are 124 fabric threads up and down the segment and 152 fabric threads across the segment of the liner. I added the 3/4 inch rings:

by counting down 12 threads from the top Back stitch row and over 19 threads from the left side of the Hedge segment and sewed on a ring,

then I skipped across 38 fabric threads and sewed on another ring three more times, this left 20 threads between the spot where the ring was sewn on and the right edge of the liner.

I skipped down 50 fabric threads from the top line of Back stitches and sewed on another row of rings.

And then skipped down 88 fabric threads from the top row of Back stitches and sewed on another row of rings.

You could substitute pearl buttons, but you may have to refigure the placements.

I use these rings to loop my embroidery threads through. Whenever I strip the floss I have all these threads laying about getting tangled, but by looping them through these rings I can pull one thread at a time with my needle tip.

I centered my initial in the next segment or the Moth segment. And placed a Rhodes square over ten fabric threads in the center of that for a needle rest. A Rhodes heart is available by clicking here .

To continue, I have turned the project upside down and have the point at the top now. I made another point or flap segment to line the project as shown below and sewed them together with Rosebud 1/2 inch silk ribbon from Gloriana, any soft, pliable, non bulky 1/2 inch ribbon will work.

You will have to sew the edges twice with the ribbon to achieve what is in the picture. I started the ribbon at the point where the black arrow is pointing and left a long tail inside the two pieces of fabric. The tails were not longer than the liner but almost that long. Later I cut them short enough so they did not peak out. And also placed a cranberry ladybug button from Just Another Button Company, T 1103 on a couple of leaves from the hedge as can be seen in the photograph below. You could stitch the ladybug from the chart on page 5 or put an initial here instead.

Please notice at the red ~ that I wrapped the outside edges of the corner klosters where the flap rolls over. This is a stressed area and will benefit from this wrap. A word of warning, with any trimmed kloster you do not want to pull outward whenever you are working on it. Make sure you are pushing your threaded needle up and down and not pulling it on an angle outward or inward. A very large eyed tapestry needle as shown in the photo and a very soft ribbon will make this step easy. If this is worrying you, you could make the points and join them together before you cut the fabric away from the Buttonhole edge. That is perfectly acceptable and you don't have to worry about pulling out any klosters.

Start the ribbon in an Eyelet at the black arrow at the top of the photo. Stitch across the top of the flap and down the left side of the flap to the corner, wrap the corner and go back up and then down the right side of the flap. You can see as you sew that you go down in one Eyelet and then come up in the next and so on, then on the return trip you sew in and out of the empty spaces.

To continue, to wrap the corner klosters just take your threaded needle around the outside edge of the kloster and bring it up again in the Pulled Eyelet stitch and stitch back to the top. I have marked one of the corner klosters with a tilde ~. Be sure to wrap both corner klosters with ribbon as shown in the photograph.

Then sew back up the right side of the flap and end the ribbon tail inside the top of the flap and its liner.

Okay, take a deep breath, because there's more.

This is the sewing case opened to the liner and finished.

In the photo above I have pinned the right side of the liner to the back side of the two butterfly segment of the stitched design. You can see the Back stitches are against the Satin stitches of the project and down the side the liner is against the back side of the Four sided stitches. The back of Four sided stitches form Cross stitches, isn't that convenient?

Now, I took a yard of #8 perle cotton and at the middle top of the project (where the center or middle safety pin is placed) I slipped a threaded needle with the perle cotton through the Buttonhole stitches making sure no thread came to the surface on either side of the stitches and pulled 1/2 the perle thread through the Buttonhole stitches around the corner and up the side to the first fold, the fold is the line of Back stitches that go across the liner from side to side right above the copyright notation. Then I repeated this step on the opposite of the project with the other half of the perle cotton. I left the tails of the perle, because later you will use these tails to make the pocket of the sewing case.

This has really worked well for me as I do not pull or stretch the pocket opening as I use it or have any stitches pull out where I sew the side together. You can see where the thread emerges on one side just above the word .com in the copyright notation in the photo above. The other thread emerges just above the copyright notice © on the other side.

The perle cotton thread should slip through fairly easy, remember don't pull outward or yank on the Buttohole stitches. If is gets hard to pull the thread, pull the needle back some space and try it again seeking an easier path. You can pull on the thread itself if you used a long enough piece. And if you have tender fingertips, try using a balloon or thin rubber glove to grip the needle. And, of course, this step is not necessary if you prefer not to do it.

Sew the back of the liner to the back of the stitched project at the Four sided stitches.

To continue with the liner, stitch the back of the liner and the back of the stitched project at the line of Cross stitches that go across the liner (see the line of stitches under the initial L in the photo below).

I would catch a piece of the thread from the Cross Stitch formed by the Four sided stitch and then a Back stitch on the liner, skip about 1/2 inch and repeat the action across the project. Sew loosely as seen in the photo above. This step is just to keep the liner from misbehaving. By tacking it in place it will fold neatly and never sag out of place.

Each row of Four sided stitches across the project is a fold in the pocket. Move the safety pins and repin them as you work down the project. I used a sewing thread that matched the project as I sewed the liner to the project at the edges. The DMC floss will not hold up over time as a seam closure. Use machine sewing thread.

At the edges I sewed the Back stitch of the liner into the cross on the back of the Four sided stitch skipping a small space between each ladder stitch. Note that the liner is right side out and it is stitched to the wrong side of the embroidery.

Pocket

Wait to make the pocket until the entire lining is sewn to the back of the stitched project. To make the pocket at the first fold I stitched through the Eyelets with beads that matched and complimented the lining. I sewed a bead on the inside and the outside of each Eyelet pair. I tacked the sewing thread inside the top of the pocket to reinforce the opening and to finish the tails of the perle thread. As you may notice the pocket is fully lined. You can use the tails of the perle to sew the pocket sides together at the outside edge of the Buttohole stitches. This is something you will have to judge. My pockets get really large after awhile so I like to take the fairly long tails of the perle and use them as explained above and then finish the tails by sewing up the sides of the pocket.

To continue with the liner, I sewed the bottom of the flap to the liner using the Buttohole stitches by coming up and over a thread above the perle of a Buttonhole stitch and then catching a stitch from the Four sides stitch on the liner. I would skip four or five fabric threads and repeat these steps until the flap was secured to the liner. Ironing will completely flatten this fold if this is something that you feel is not attractive, I usually stop here because I am always pulling these project apart to either wash them or teach with them.